Rites of passage in a day-trip town

There are several things one must do to try to assimilate oneself with Japanese culture, even though assimilation for a foreigner is impossible: an outsider will never be treated as Japanese. Even some insiders, because of their blood, are never wholly welcomed into society -- it can be pretty complicated. But for those who wish to try to understand Japan, there are several initiation rites that one should undergo:

1) Get a bike

My students are very giving people. Their charity usually extends to edible omiyage, which tend to be shared among teachers and students at the school. I've been gifted with candy and I've been gifted with movie tickets. I've been gifted with a fan bearing calligraphy spelling out who knows what (most Japanese cannot read Japanese calligraphy unless they've been trained, and even then styles can be vastly different and confusing). And I've also been gifted with a loaner-bike. It's nothing state-of-the-art, but it managed to hold up for a 14km round-trip excursion a few weekends ago.

2) Live without a washing machine, clothes dryer, oven, and central air

Wah.

3) Sleep on the floor

A student actually has an extra bed that she said I could borrow, but I think that would be a little much to ask. And I'm actually pretty comfortable on my futon (apartment pictures).

4) Ride tandem on a single-seat bike

Several weeks ago after a long night of eating and drinking at Big O's apartment, though I was offered the couch, I decided I'd rather wake up cotton-mouthed in my own place. So at about four in the morning I headed home (in Japan this is generally pretty safe). Another dinner guest (with a bike) also took off, so instead of walking 25 minutes, I rode and she clutched from behind. There was something very romantic about this in a distinctly Japanese way, not a sexual way (she's married), and as we climbed an overpass and I was pumping away at the pedals on the one-speed bike, she said, "Gambatte!" (In Japan, they have a much-used verb that translates to: "do your best") and something rang very true about the moment.

5) Look at naked Japanese man-ass

Onsens are public hot spring baths much-frequented by the Japanese, who take their bathing very seriously. Some have multiple pools of different sizes and temperatures. You must wash with soap and shampoo before you enter the hot springs. And you must be naked. Thankfully, I've lost most all of my naked-shame so my first Onsen experience was very relaxing.

6) Experience an earthquake

On the morning of Sept. 26 I was convinced that my room was shaking and that I was experiencing a minor earthquake. I asked about it at the school and no one else felt it, so I checked an online seismic monitor. Nothing. I have no idea what caused my room to shake or if it was just a vivid dream, but soon, I'm sure, I will experience an earthquake. Then my checklist will be complete, which is a shame, because I need more to do.

There is nothing to do in Himeji. Yes, there's Himeji Castle, which takes all of two hours to explore (the castle is relatively uninteresting, though its grounds and neighboring garden are beautiful). 7km away there's also Mount Shosha, a peaceful little mountain where part of The Last Samurai was filmed. I visited both of them several weeks ago (some crappy pictures I took), and that pretty much exhausted Himeji's tourist options. As such, I have no typical weekend, no day-off routine, and will likely venture farther and farther as the days go by.

Last weekend I went back to Kokoen (the garden beside the castle, more crappy pictures) to experience my first Japanese tea ceremony. Tea ceremony is inordinately complex, each skillful motion made by the kimono-laden hosts was delicate and easy though heavy with meaning. I took cues from the people next to me and discovered my part was as follows: bow, bow, eat, bow, drink, bow, bow, bow. You'd think it pretty easy, but no, I had to sit "seiza" style. After 20 minutes of that, pins and needles became swords and daggers, and for the subsequent 10 minutes walking around was an exercise in futility. Even some of the Japanese have trouble with it (ok, she was like 65 and stumbled once, but still...).

Last weekend I also went to Izushi (even more crappy pictures), which is famous for its soba (buckwheat) noodles, Harimaya, which is famous for its rice crackers (curry, seaweed, etc) and sweet-bean restaurant, a no-name Onsen, and more karaoke. It's good to have students with cars.